I have tried 3 turns, lots of turns , less turns, I do it the right way I am like 100% sure but I always get leaks, I use it for fittings in compressed air (8 bar).
I do it how the guy teaches in this video. What do I do?
I have tried 3 turns, lots of turns , less turns, I do it the right way I am like 100% sure but I always get leaks, I use it for fittings in compressed air (8 bar).
I do it how the guy teaches in this video. What do I do?
I think some modern NPT threads are not as well made as in the past. I have had more leaks than decades ago. Used to be white Teflon tape would work every time, but the last four (recent) 1/2" and 3/4" NPT connections I have made leaked.
In both cases I had to take them apart and use pipe dope. One (washing machine supply valves hot and cold) seeped for days but finally sealed, another (outside faucets) had a serious seep and may or may not have stopped (outside and not a problem). First application of pipe dope didn't work; I took it apart again and this time used pipe dope on female as well as male threads. The water meter shows no observable leak.
If you're an occasional DIY plumber like me, use dope. (I used Oatey Pro Dope from Home Depot but I'm sure it's nothing special.) Cover the threads completely on the male fitting. Tighten with opposing wrenches until it feels like you'll break it pushing harder. If you don't have that feel, use maybe 6" long wrenches for a 1/4" fitting, 12" wrenches on a 1/2", and big pipe wrenches on bigger - then tighten until you can't really put more force into it. Of course if orientation is key, try to get at least one full wrench turn and then more to orient.
I built an all lead-free brass well tank tee with four different NPT sizes, and I found that I needed pipe wrenches for the 1/2" and bigger. A pipe wrench is made to dig in and grip tighter with more force. Open-end or adjustable wrenches just slip. Luckily I inherited 3 pipe wrenches from a grandfather so I had what I needed.
I got 100% leak tight mating with dope and no additional tightening after pressurizing. That was my second try. First try I used thin teflon tape and got 100% LEAKING even tightening more than I felt comfortable. The dope was easy and did the job.
Wrap the teflon tape onto the threads in same direction as if you were screwing on a fitting. Looking at the pipe with the fitting threads on in a clockwise direction, wrap tape around pipe towards the right (clockwise) and give it 4-5 turns minimum. But, you can put 10-20 if you want as long as you can get the fitting started. I have never had any trouble myself. But, you can also put pipe dope on before tape and after as well and then you can't possibly have a leak. If you do...well then I recommend trying your hand at working with wood instead and have your cat do all pipe work from here on. Good luck bud.
When using Teflon tape, you only need 3-4 wraps put on in the same direction as you turn on the fitting. Start the wrap, at the end of the fitting and wrap towards the piping keeping the tape tight, "it takes practice". Then, you can add some pipe dope on top of the Teflon tape,(it doesn't have to be expensive dope). Or you can forgo the Teflon tape and dope and just use RTV silicone, red, clear black, or whatever color you want. I used the silicone on air, water, natural gas, fuel oil, almost anything, and give it time to set up. I even used it on steam and hot water boilers and piping if I was dealing with questionable pipe threads. One caveat, if the threads are really crap, like some foreign stuff throw the stuff away and buy American.