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this is a follow up to an earlier thread of mine, regarding a range that popped upon ignition, spat out sparks from a rear burner and caused a surge protector in a different room to reset.

Why is my gas oven popping and sparking?

the main breaker board is in need to remediation, i know that, but maybe the range is messed up, too. after unplugging the thing, i opened the back and took pics. are those burnish marks on the insulation normal or ... not? indication of a short or not?

i have calls out to electricians and appliance repair folks but it's going to take some time before i see either of them.

i suspect this is going to cost me a bunch of money to get fixed.

https://i.stack.imgur.com/gB9lC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qBVB3cD.png

https://i.imgur.com/KLmfq7w.png

Harper - Reinstate Monica
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linter
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    Marks not normal and do look like a short. If you can, remove that cover and take a picture of the wires underneath. Problem might be a simple fix. – crip659 Jul 06 '21 at 16:14

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Those marks are completely normal and are where the heat is escaping if you’ll notice the wiring is well away from that location.

A gas stove only has a small element to ignite the gas a “ glow worm” usually a ni/chrome element type of hot surface igniter or a spark gap. The insulation is normally discolored where there is an opening.

Normally the oven and stove top are on different ignitor types what is the model#

Ed Beal
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  • hi, ed: it's a jenn aire JDR8895AAB. any other photos i can take that'd be helpful? should i do as the previous responder suggested? – linter Jul 06 '21 at 23:23
  • Linter more photos are helpful. I would focus on areas where the wiring enters. there could be a problem there it is most likely at the connection of the hot surface igniter as this is in the hottest area. I have special high temp crimp connectors for repairs on stoves and ovens, the standard nickel plated copper ones don’t hold up in high temp areas the ones I have are rated to 900f. According to user manual the spark module is in the lower rear section of the unit this may have failed and the arcs and sparks evidence may be clear. Look lower left pic wire is that wire burned? Not clear. – Ed Beal Jul 07 '21 at 13:15
  • hi, ed: near as i can tell, nothing looks burned. see attached pix. where else might i try? this is very confusing! https://i.imgur.com/AkYKJYc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8C4p1L6.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yVq50KU.jpg – linter Jul 07 '21 at 17:57
  • Looking at your second or middle pic, in the lower right I see a dark area when expanded are there any scorch marks down there? You may need to follow the wiring along the frame until it enters the oven and / or stove top as possible locations for a short. – Ed Beal Jul 07 '21 at 19:27
  • hi, ed: just to wrap this up, a repairman came in on friday. plugged everything in. turned the right rear burner knob -- no clicking. 'okay, that one is bad,' he said. then he turned the next knob and ... kapow! huge pop and flames blew up from under that other knob. big jumping on both our parts. he was behind the oven and able to blow out the flames. sure wish i had a video of it. quite something. said the way the oven was built, burners would have to be drilled out and everything replaced, about $600 parts, no labor included. – linter Jul 11 '21 at 16:10
  • he sealed off the live wires and suggested the repair wasn't worth the money. said i should just light the top burners manually, with a lighter. the oven part is electric, not gas, so with the deadly wires capped off, i should be fine. total cost: $39, diagnostic. guess i'll just live w/ it the way it is, at least for a while. see anything worrisome about any of this? thanks! – linter Jul 11 '21 at 16:12
  • If the stove is not plugged in I see no problem lighting the burner with a match. When I was a child my great grandmother had to light her stove and oven every time she used it but I would not leave plugged in for any reason as the fire could be worse next time. – Ed Beal Jul 11 '21 at 16:20