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There is a 3/8" grout line behind the end trim of the new bathroom tile, how do I cover this, do I just float it with mud once I tape the joint?

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JustSomeGuy
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    Are you talking about the drywall corner or the gap between the tile and the drywall? All gaps between tile & other surfaces should be caulked not grouted - different materials will expand and contract at different rates and the grout will crack in short order. – FreeMan Oct 12 '23 at 16:15
  • @FreeMan I'm talking about hiding that white grout line between the black end trim and the cement board where the tile ends. – JustSomeGuy Oct 12 '23 at 16:20
  • Oh! The tile, the black line (edge trim), the light grey texture (grout line), the darker grey texture (backer board), and textured drywall are all coplanar? Wow... that was a very deceptive picture! I thought the little piece of backer board was at a 90° angle to the drywall, then the grout was again at a 90° to that! I'd still suggest that the grout should probably be a caulk bead, but 3/8" is pretty wide. I'll leave it at that and wait for those with more experience to chime in here... – FreeMan Oct 12 '23 at 16:50
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    @FreeMan I added another photo to make it clearer. – JustSomeGuy Oct 12 '23 at 17:03
  • That's a heckuva optical confusion. I think I have a handle on what I'm looking at. If I'm correct, then please take inspiration from my description for the benefit of others. The face of the drywall is coplanar with the face of the backer board, where a little stub of backer board sticks out awaiting tape and mud. There's a 3/8" butt joint between the metal trim and the drywall plane, and that butt joint has been filled with grout. – popham Oct 13 '23 at 04:43

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Yes, float the drywall's surface right up to the start of the trim. Be sure to get an even reveal all the way up. A little wave here and there is no big deal, where the caulk's edge on the trim is the critical reveal.

When your wall is ready for paint, you'll want to caulk the 90° joint where the drywall plane meets the metal trim first. A little bead in that joint looks best (that's why you float right up to the trim). For the bead of paintable caulk you want to tape a vertical line on the trim for a nice sharp edge. Now caulk the joint with a nice small bead and be sure to leave the painter's tape in place. That tape will protect the trim from your subsequent painting too. Only when the final top coat is on the wall do you want to remove the tape.

There are a caveats to go with the painter's tape. If the leg of your caulk bead is too thick on top of the tape's edge, then peeling the tape can leave a little visible tear or worse. If you don't pull the tape at the correct angle, the tape can peel the paint away from the wall.

popham
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