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I'm not a plumber by any means, but my kitchen renovation is already very over-budget so figured I'd attempt to connect my sink plumbing myself. I haven't glued this together, it's just dry fitted, but I wanted to see if everything looked right first or if any adjustments would be needed.

Before, there had been an S trap, which I know isn't up to code. I did a lot of research and learned that I needed an AAV to work with a P trap since the drain is in the floor and not the wall. From what I can tell, the only requirements were that it should be placed as high as possible (with a min. of 6") from the horizontal P trap pipe and I think I saw somewhere the pipe needed to be at least 4" from the P trap to the sanitary tee. Does this all look right?

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Dylan L
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1 Answers1

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It looks correct but I don't like the glue-in trap adapter. A slip joint for the trap arm will make it:

  • easier to fit (2 more degrees of freedom - in/out, and rotate to vertical)
  • easier to snake (one less 90 and entering from the front not the bottom)
  • easier to replace with a different disposal when the time comes (same 2 degrees of freedom plus easy to add extension or cut the arm)

Also, it looks like you're being fairly meticulous, so I'll add something I saw recently --- perfectionist plumbers have the writing on the pipes always face out (for easy inspection, which I doubt you'll be doing here), or always in (so it looks nicer, which doesn't matter under a sink ... or does it?)

jay613
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  • The key is to make all the writing not just face the same direction but also read in the same direction, and that direction should be with the fall of the pipe. – pdd Nov 17 '23 at 23:28
  • The biggest thing here is to have the avv higher than the flood line of the sink, such that the sink floods the floor on backup before crud floods the aav. Looks like there might be enough room to push the aav up between the sink and the back of the cabinet a little bit higher. – Fresh Codemonger Nov 17 '23 at 23:36
  • Ok thank you! I'll keep the writing in mind when I glue everything in. I see what you're saying about the slip joint. That's how I've seen them set up before in the past, but I must've bought the wrong kind of kit because it only came with a glue-on adapter. I'll go back out tomorrow and find a different one. – Dylan L Nov 17 '23 at 23:43
  • @FreshCodemonger I was able to move some of the faucet lines around to move the AAV a bit, so I think this should be good now that it's above the sink drain? https://imgur.com/a/b54flNS – Dylan L Nov 18 '23 at 00:29
  • @pdd I love it. Brilliant. Something to aspire to. If your coworkers don't defenestrate you. – jay613 Nov 18 '23 at 01:23
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    @FreshCodemonger I have seen "flood level" advice a lot but I did some reading for this question and code seems to be 4 inches top of trap weir to bottom of AAV, and specifically says flood level doesn't matter because trapped air will be compressed and prevent water or debris from reaching the AAV. It seems like a good idea, certainly more useful than imagining the pipes are directional :) per pdd. But it's not required by code or (some) manufacturer instructions, and Oatey's instructions include illustration exactly as OP has done it. – jay613 Nov 18 '23 at 01:27
  • @DylanL aav looks way better up high like that. My plumbers always put it in with the max height. There certainly are some codes that require it above the flood level and it makes sense that if you can do it you should. Good work ! https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/air-admittance-valve-above-the-flood-level-rim.14452/# – Fresh Codemonger Dec 02 '23 at 04:06