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We just had carpeting removed from our basement stairs and oak treads put in. The length of the oak treads put in is now shorter, and only measuring at 9.5" on the treads. Our contractor is telling us that 9.5" is code for our city and we are fine, but our other stairs are 10 3/4" for tread depth and this is a noticeable difference when walking on them (my whole foot can barely fit on the 9.5" stairs).

The treads overhang the riser by about an inch. I never measured the treads before, but underneath our carpeting we had very basic "carpenter stairs" and I never noticed them being narrow to walk on, and now I do. The house was built in 1989.

What should I do? The contractor is not fully paid yet.

FreeMan
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  • If the treads already overhang an inch or so there isn't really much you can do except adding a bigger overhang which might become a trip hazard. Would have to check the IRC and see what the rules are on tread overhang. The depth of the treads is determined by the max run of the stair stringers, if you have more space at the landing, one option would be to build new stairs that project farther with bigger steps. – matt. Nov 24 '23 at 02:40
  • Looks like IRC states a minimum tread depth of 10". – matt. Nov 24 '23 at 03:05
  • Thank you Matt. I'm not sure if you are a contractor or a homeowner, but how would you handle this with your contractor? He doesn't have full payment yet for the job. – Denise Jones Nov 24 '23 at 03:11
  • I'm a carpenter, been in the trades for 20+ years. IRC 311.7.5.2 states minimum tread depth of 10". When was the house built? – matt. Nov 24 '23 at 03:17
  • Is this something that potentially could come up in a home inspection when we go to sell our house? – Denise Jones Nov 24 '23 at 03:24
  • If the distance from riser to tip of tread is 10" and you have 1" nosing, then technically you have 9" treads. The IRC is a "reference code," where I've seen the stairs part overridden by a municipality (I think it was Minneapolis). Just know that your city may have its own stairs nuances. Often a ceiling constraint will cause stair issues. Distance from tip of nosing to ceiling must be 6'-8" or greater. – popham Nov 24 '23 at 05:26
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    What country is this question regarding? Can you please add a country tag to your question? – End Anti-Semitic Hate Nov 24 '23 at 10:53
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    *my whole foot can barely fit on the 9.5" stairs*. Then you can get more of your foot on the step than a lot of people. Anyone over a US 7.5 or 8 would fill a 9.5" step even in bare feet. I'd be a US 13; in shoes I'd need 13" steps to put my whole foot on. That doesn't happen in normal staircases. Here in the UK the minimum is apparently 220mm, i.e. about 8.7" or under 3/4 of a tall person's shod foot. – Chris H Nov 24 '23 at 11:16
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    I'm confused about how your tread depth changed. Replacing treads wouldn't do this unless either the original treads had very long overhangs or you were measuring the soft portion of the carpet as part of them. Please revise to explain better. The question is virtually unanswerable as it is. – isherwood Nov 24 '23 at 14:28
  • @Chris H In the UK is the angle between the tread and the riser 90 deg or can it be less than 90 to give a longer tread run without using nosing? https://youtu.be/FMLIFJgz3CE?si=RGN3PQ1Tavq7ZjVd – Jim Stewart Nov 25 '23 at 01:33
  • Larry Haun first lays out right angles then reduces the angles by cutting back by 1 inch at the bottoms to give a tread 1" longer without using nosing. If the OP's house had this system and the contractor decided to change the angle between the risers and the treads to 90 deg, then this would shorten the run unless a full 1 inch nosing would be used. – Jim Stewart Nov 25 '23 at 01:44
  • @JimStewart I'm not saying it can never be off vertical, but it's certainly rare. I've never lived in a house like that. Mine have a tiny bit of nosing. From memory and feel 1cm or 1/2" but they're covered in carpet. Tread depth is about 220mm nosing to nosing, roughly 230mm apparent. Rise is 200mm. That's pretty typical (1990s built; my previous house was 1930s and very similar) – Chris H Nov 25 '23 at 09:26
  • @Chris H Check out the New Yorkshire Workshop on youtube. He repaired some old stairs in his old house. It seems stairs in the UK have a shorter unit run than considered correct in the US. – Jim Stewart Nov 25 '23 at 12:55
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    @JimStewart I think that must be the case. And I think we can assume the OPis in the US from the language and use of inches. But I've never been in a house that side of the Atlantic, only hotels and public buildings. We do tend to build more compact houses here. But my main point is that the sensation of a small step is more a matter of unfamiliarity than a real problem - rules and regulations are another matter of course – Chris H Nov 25 '23 at 13:11
  • Most stairs in the US may be constructed with vertical risers. Larry Haun's system of risers off vertical to give a longer tread might not have been used in the original stairs of this OP.. We do not know what the OP here had before the work and we do not know what the contractor did, except the OP states in a comment that both the treads and the risers were changed. We need more information from the OP. – Jim Stewart Nov 26 '23 at 03:54

3 Answers3

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The house was built when the code allowed a 9" run with a minimum of a 3/4" overhang (9 3/4" tread) and I believe and a maximum overhang of 1 1/4" (10 1/4" total tread depth). Your stairs are presumably original to the house and for the contractor who reworked the treads, I am sure would have not gone through the trouble of shortening all the treads. The code measures the treads from face of riser to face of the next riser, or stair nose to stair nose, the same thing just taken from different reference points.

In order for the contractor to shorten all the treads would require a lot more work on his part than simply replacing the treads with oak.

11-25 Edit

stair change

I thought this may clarify the extra work that would be needed to change all treads to a smaller size. I am either missing something or the carpenter spent a lot of time to do a totally unnecessary thing.

Jack
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  • **Comments have been [moved to chat](https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/149945/discussion-on-answer-by-jack-why-are-my-new-wooden-treads-narrower-than-the-orig); please do not continue the discussion here.** Before posting a comment below this one, please review the [purposes of comments](/help/privileges/comment). Comments that do not request clarification or suggest improvements usually belong as an [answer](/help/how-to-answer), on [meta], or in [chat]. Comments continuing discussion may be removed. – BMitch Nov 27 '23 at 16:19
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OP states all the other stairs in the house have a tread depth of 10.75" but after the contractor redid the basement stairs they have only 9.5" of tread depth. Pics in comment by OP are consistent with tread depth 9.0" (not 9.5") and rise 7.5". OP should edit the question to put the link to the pics there. (Can leave the link in the comment, and just add link to the question.)

OP reports the basement stairs walk differently after the work, are cramped. OP thinks the contractor left the old risers in place and added new risers by fastening them to the faces of the old risers. The may be the accepted way to add hardwood treads and risers to a stairs which were originally built for carpet. The original 2x lumber is left in place and treated as subflooring for treads and for risers.

The original stairs had a significant overhang of the treads past the original risers which might have been 1" or a little more and would have been exaggerated due to having carpet over nearly sharp 90 deg edges. On the new treads the nosing is more rounded in cross section, is slick hardwood, and may not protrude as far. This would shorten the tread depth.

It is hard to understand how these two factors could account for the tread depth being reduced from an original 10.75" to the current 9.5".

What to do now? I would not accept a modification to stairs that presented a safely hazard that was not present in the original construction.

It could be that in some parts of the US it was common to have basement stairs that were inferior to the stairs in the regular living space, but IMHO this is not acceptable in the present day. In fine homes in the UK and maybe in the US I believe there were servant's stairs that were steeper (higher rise and shorter run) and with shorter treads than the owner's stairs in the house.

If the OP does not have measurements of rise, run and tread depth of the original stairs with carpet removed, then she should ask the contractor if he measured that and has the measurements. In any case, the contractor should have informed the homeowner that the redo as planned would reduce the tread depth and make the stairs harder to use than the original construction. Even if 9.5" is the allowed minimum, it is not as convenient as 10.5" and is significantly different from all the other stairs in the house.

There is a standard that the rise + run = 17" to 18". But it seems that in practice in using this standard the tread depth is used in place of run. This suggests that perhaps the stairs could be made more like the rest of the stairs in the house by extending the nosing to the maximum allowed. But could this be done without removing the treads?

Jim Stewart
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  • Now here is a real set of problem stairs. https://youtu.be/46vpG9arDAM?si=dFqdgNYQqMVx7-xe The craftsman at New Yorkshire Worshop on youtube is amazing. Check out his Victorian Front Door videos. – Jim Stewart Nov 28 '23 at 18:24
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What should I do?

Call your city building inspector, express your concern and ask her to come inspect your carpenter's work.

You may get an answer over the phone of the exact measurements that will meet code, or she may schedule a time to stop by and check for herself. Even if this inspection costs you some money, you'll sleep better knowing one way or the other, whether or not this meets code.

NB: I can't imagine that replacing carpet with hardwood on stairs would require a permit, so there shouldn't be any worry here. If it does require a permit where you live (and the contractor didn't pull one), then this will tell you a lot about your choice of contractors and you should maybe ask the inspector to cast a careful eye over all the work done by the contractor...

These stairs no longer match other stairs in the house.

That's a matter of what was specified in your contract with your carpenter and that's not something we can deal with here. If it was spec'd that there should be no changes in the rise/run/feel of the stairs, then the contractor is in breach. If it wasn't specified, then there's not much you can do other than ask for a change order, get a quote, and decide whether or not to pay for it.

FreeMan
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